It’s worth paying a visit to Candelaria in Paris for the taqueria alone, which serves traditional Mexican street food, authentic and handmade, in a small, casual setting. But it’s the bar hidden behind it that has made Candelaria a staple of the Parisian cocktail scene since 2011.

Effortlessly blending elements of Latin American culture and cuisine with Parisian style, this is an intimate, dimly-lit space, in contrast with the brightly-lit taqueria. Inside, the decor skips any obvious Mexican cues, or indeed any speakeasy cliches, opting instead for a classy, rustic feel. The low light, stone walls and a central stone pillar all give the impression of being in a cave, with decorative touches from vintage markets and young artists alike.

The wooden bar top is made from recycled floor panels from the taqueria, fronted by brass sheets and behind the bar, variously-sized boxes display an array of unusual bottles. Comfortable banquettes and vintage barstools encourage guests to settle in for the duration, soaking up the atmosphere and exploring the quality selection of drinks on offer. Bartenders, meanwhile, work from custom-made stations that have been created with efficiency in mind.

Mezcal is the name of the game here, supported by other agave spirits, with a rotating selection that highlights small producers in particular. These and other spirits are used to create cocktails that draw equally on Latin American ingredients and local seasonal produce, with the latter often preserved by freezing or fermenting. Beyond alcoholic components, everything here is made in-house.

The menu – in both French and English – features illustrations of the cocktails, and changes every two months. The entire team is involved in the creation of the cocktails here, with an element of competition when it comes to selecting those that will make the final list. While Candelaria’s cocktails are invariably complex, and often technical, they appear deceptively simple, both in their presentation and in the way they’re described on the menu. 

Diversity is a core value here, reflected in terms of culture and gender among the team. With owners not originally from France, there’s support for staff members who are immigrants to the country, including help with language learning, as well as navigating local healthcare and education systems. Recognising that some team members may be without family and friends around Christmas, there’s a staff event around this time with presents exchanged, as well as dinner. This all contributes towards a supportive, inclusive culture that’s tangible on entering the bar.